. . . Weltrekordler Capitán Luis Torres . . . 

Die Erzählungen und Informationen haben uns verunsichert. Wie kommen wir voran, in welchem Zustand sind die Straßen, wie weit ist die Straße repariert und in welchem Zustand ist die Ersatzstraße, welche gebaut wurde, nachdem das Dorf Santa Lucia Ende Dezember verschüttet wurde und der chilenische Weg nach Norden versperrt war.

Da alle Fähren ausgebucht waren und die Einheimischen bevorzugt wurden, mußten wir wohl oder übel den Landweg über Argentinien wählen. Wir haben unsere Routenplanung angepasst und uns für kürzere Tagesetappen entschieden, so sollte unsere erste Strecke nur bis La Junta gehen. Eine kurze Strecke von knapp 300 km mit wenig Schottenanteil. Wir starten bei schönem Wetter und fahren die Carretera Austral nordwärts. Herrliche Landschaften, tolle Straßen . . . wie immer bergauf, bergab, nach links, nach rechts . . . . auf Grund des geringen Verkehrs und der tollen Straße wurde die Geschwindigkeit immer höher, sodaß wir bereits am späten Vormittag in Manihuales angekommen sind. Da war doch was, hier wohnt doch unser chilenischer Capitán den wir in San Pedro de Atacama kennengelernt und der uns zu sich eingeladen hatte. In den vergangen Wochen hielten wir immer Kontakt zu Ihm, leider konnte auch er uns bei der Fährbuchung nicht behilflich sein. Kurz entschlossen haben wir bei den Carabinerie, die gerade eine Autokontrolle auf der Hauptstrasse durchgeführt haben angehalten und uns nach Luis Torres erkundigt. Die Verständigung war sehr schwierig, aber als der Name Capitán Luis Torres gefallen ist, wären die beiden Polizisten fast in „Habachtstellung“ gegangen. Sie erklärten uns den Weg, aber dies zu finden schien für uns unmöglich. Also, kurz entschlossen beendeten Sie Ihre Kontrolle und geleiteten uns zu Luis. Dieser hat ein kleines Feriendomizil , welches sich im Aufbau befindet, nur wenige Kilometer in einem Seitental. Der Polizeiwagen fuhr voraus und wir hinterher. Wir bogen in eine Schotterstrasse ab und dann ging es los. Bergauf immer höher, :“der wohnt doch am Fluss dachte ich noch“, nach ca. 10 km haben wir dann den Abzweig erreicht. Eine supersteile grobe Schottenpiste bergab, da unten soll Luis sein! Eigentlich war die Strecke für uns nicht fahrbar, voll bepackt und dann dieser Weg. Martin der Unerschrockene preschte los, also was halfs, Gunnar und ich mußten hinterher. Sogar das Polizeiauto fuhr den Weg hinunter. Heilfroh unten angekommen, begrüßte uns der Capitán. :“Welcome my German Friends“

Er zeigte uns sein Anwesen und erklärte was er alles vor hat. Besonders aufgefallen ist mir der Dreibeinige Hund und das angebundene Schaaf. Nach Rückfrage wurde uns erklärt, dass der Hund nicht folgte und deshalb wurde Ihm eine Pfote an den Hals gebunden.  . . . . . und das Schaaf sei unser Mittagessen. Ohweh mir ahnt, da kommt was auf uns zu. Luis ließ sich nicht lange Zeit, er ging zum Schaaf packte es an zwei Beinen und trug es zum Richtklotz. Noch schnell die Beine zusammengebunden und dann ging es auch gleich los. Das Schaaf wurde auf traditionelle weise geschlachtet und das wars . . . . für das Schaaf. Danach wurde es aufgehängt, das Fell abgezogen und ausgeweidet. Auf dem Mittagstisch wurde es fachmännisch an ein Metallgestell befestigt und anschließend neben das Feuer gestellt. Nun braucht es Zeit, ca. 3 bis 4 Stunden. Also hieß es warten. Martin und Gunnar sind mit Luis an den Fluss abgestiegen. Ich konnte leider nicht mit, denn mein Fuß war immer noch lädiert. Als die Drei zurückkamen, zeigte uns der Patron, ein älterer Mann dem wohl das ganze Tal gehörte, noch seine Reitkünste. Obwohl er erst vor zwei Monaten den Fuß gebrochen hatte, saß er bereits wieder im Sattel und vollführte seine Kunststückchen. Noch schnell wurden Kartoffeln aufgesetzt und Salat wurde geholt, Bierbüchsen wurden zu Weingläsern umfunktioniert und der Tisch wurde mit kochendem Wasser gesäubert. (desinfiziert)

Luis erzählte uns von seinem Weltrekord. Zeittauchen in großer Höhe. Was muss man sich vorstellen. Er ist mit Freunden aufgebrochen den höchsten Vulkansee in 6.000m Höhe zu erklimmen um dann in diesem 1 Stunde und 10 min. zu tauchen . . . Weltrekord! Das ganze Material wurde zu Fuss hinaufgetragen und natürlich wieder nach unten. Die Ganze Anstrengung dauerte ca. 20 Stunden. Wenn es interessiert, hier noch der Link zu Capitán Luis Torres.

www.elregional.cl/2018/01/22/capitan-del-gope-de-carabineros-bate-record-mundial-de-buceo-extremo/

www.museocarabineros.cl/sitio/portfolio/capitan-luis-torres-molina-bucear-en-la-antartica-es-lo-mas-peligroso-del-mundo/

Unser Patron, er hieß Aurelius und kannte sein Alter nicht, befand dass das Schaaf nun fertig sei. Alle Mann und auch die Tochter von Luis fanden sich an der Festtafel ein. Gegessen wurde mit den Händen und der Wein wurde aus Bierbüchsen getrunken. Ein mords Spass, aber das sei üblich hier . . . . und das Beste war, uns hat es allen super geschmeckt. Ein Schaaf für 8 Mann und Renata die Tochter von Luis. Auf unser Bitten hin wurde sogar der arme Hund noch von seiner Strafe befreit, noch einmal kurz am Ohr gezogen, so sollte es Ihm eine Lehre gewesen sein. Natürlich hätten wir auch an diesem Ort übernachten können, aber wir hatten zuvor schon das nächste Hotel gebucht und ausgerechnet das vermeintlich Beste bisher.

Gegen 17:00 Uhr sind wir wieder mit vollen Bäuchen aufgebrochen und mußten den steilen Schotterweg zurückfahren. Erleichtert haben wir die Hauptstraße erreicht und fuhren weiter unserem gebuchten Hotel entgegen. Der Weg führt uns durch den chilenischen Urwald, vorbei am hängenden Gletscher und einer traumhaften Landschaft. Die Straße wurde wieder schlechter und wir fuhren weitere 40 km Schotterpiste, mit Gegenverkehr der uns aus Sichtgründen zum Anhalten zwang. Im Mittelteil wurden wir auf eine Fähre umgeleitet, da die Straße auf einem Teilstück abgebrochen und nur eingeschränkt befahrbar war. Nun hatte Gunnar doch noch seine Fährfahrt bekommen. Am Abend erreichten wir unser Hotel. Eine Oase in La Junta, eigentlich schade, denn es war das bisher beste Hotel/Nachquatier was wir gebucht hatten und wir konnte es aus Zeitgründen nicht ausnutzen. Am Abend an der Bar haben wir dann noch den zukünftigen Tourismusminister von Chile kennengelernt und von unseren Erlebnissen berichtet. Diesen Tag kann uns niemand mehr nehmen, was für ein Erlebnis mitten in PATAGONIEN.

Danke Luis, Du bist ein echt cooler Freund.
Gracias Luis, eres un amigo genial.

Start: Coyhaique
Ziel: San Junta
Streckenlänge : 297 km
Höhen: von 0 m bis 579 m
Temperaturen: 12° bis 28° C

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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